Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. It's not just a solitary thing - it's become a family thing, too. It's about exercising and passing something on from father to son, and from mother to daughter.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
Surfing is something I just crave.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.
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