People go surfing before work and paddling afterward. My husband is from Wisconsin, and he goes to work in his Hawaiian shirt.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
I come to Maui and go surfing, standup paddling, slacklining, swimming, and free-diving.
I surf, swim, play water polo, and I paddle an outrigger canoe with my team. I'm also a klutz on land, so water is my thing.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
My mom was married to a Mexican guy - a surfer - and so we'd kind of camp out on the beach the swell season.
At any given time, there are a lot of million-dollar luxury charter boats cruising around the Mentawai Islands finding the most incredible waves. And yet the people on shore are suffering. The whole scene is wrong. As a surf community, we have to do something.
I love Hawaii. I really enjoy surfing in Oahu, and Waianae is such a great area. And Maui - I like Maui a lot, too.
In Hawaii, we go to this wonderful place, all families. My wife and I go directly from breakfast to a beach chair where we read all day. My daughter goes from water to pool to running around with friends she meets, some of whom are regulars there.
I would love to go to Hawaii and do 'Hawaii Five-0,' because who doesn't want to work in Hawaii?
I've been boogie-boarding, off and on, since I was a kid. But I started being devoted to the cause of getting up every morning to surf, when I'm in Los Angeles, about a decade or so ago.
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
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