I come from surfing, and surfing is the worst cool-guy industry of all. I decided long ago to try and kill the cool guy.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
You're not really necessarily the coolest guy in their life. You are a conduit to the really cool people.
I'm actually a very bad surfer, which is good because everybody likes a bad surfer. Nobody likes a good surfer.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
I've never been cool - and I don't care.
All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there's nothing like that.
Surfing is such an incredible experience with a huge ego element.
I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
I come from an area where it's mostly, like, football and basketball, those are the sports. So my brother started surfing... I used to make fun of him for it, and then he challenged me to do it, and I'm a huge competitor, and I did it ,and I got hooked.