I've always been under the impression that it would be such a bummer to be in a peaceful place like Hawaii or the tropics and be stressed about catching waves.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
At any given time, there are a lot of million-dollar luxury charter boats cruising around the Mentawai Islands finding the most incredible waves. And yet the people on shore are suffering. The whole scene is wrong. As a surf community, we have to do something.
I do like the ocean wave, actually. I'm born under the sign of Cancer - the sign of the crab - so I like coastal areas and sunny beaches and such - although not the wide-open and deep seas.
When people are worried about the future, they don't take trips to Hawaii.
Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.
I guess this is gonna sound kind of weird, but I'm not scared for myself for dying. Because I believe all these places are temporary. This is just one shell. Because we Hawaiians live in both worlds.
Listening to soft music and the sound of the ocean is quite relaxing to me.
I want to stay in Hawaii a little while. I'm kind of liking it over there.
I have to at least get a couple weekends in where I can just be on Santa Monica beach or Malibu and just ride the waves.
I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.
Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.