I loved going surfing down on Venice Beach. I'd go out with a board under my arm and think, 'I can't do that in Cranhill.'
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
I grew up surfing. My dad probably put me on a surfboard before I could walk.
I started surfing when I was working on 'The Hunger Games,' out on the north shore of Oahu, so about four years ago. I used to skateboard as a kid, kind of religiously, until I broke my leg riding in a pool when I was about 14 and I couldn't play football that fall.
There was one thing I loved a little bit more than surfing - and that was acting.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
I've been boogie-boarding, off and on, since I was a kid. But I started being devoted to the cause of getting up every morning to surf, when I'm in Los Angeles, about a decade or so ago.
I was a good surfer because we grew up a block from the water, and my father took us to the ocean the way other fathers take their kids to the park.
In L.A., I like to surf. I went through a phase - I was surfing four days a week. I'm still not good at it; I still spend most of my time falling.
I discovered surfing, which I absolutely fell in love with. That feels good and kind of keeps your body aligned, so does the salt water.
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