You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
From Rob Machado
I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book.
I've been very lucky, getting to travel the world with professional photographers. I'd grab their equipment, get a few lessons, and start firing shots.
3 perspectives
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