You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
It's good to surf whatever waves are going on right there as they're happening.
I'm fortunate enough with the surfing to be very much at home at the water - my pulse and heart rate are slower in the water than they are on land.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
It's the way surfing is - you grow up surfing together, and then you're thrown into a heat at Pipe or a world title bout against one another.
You only need two waves in a heat, so I try and keep my surfs short and sweet and not too draining. Keep them intense and try and get the two best waves I can.
As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
It doesn't matter if the water is cold or warm if you're going to have to wade through it anyway.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.