It's the way surfing is - you grow up surfing together, and then you're thrown into a heat at Pipe or a world title bout against one another.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. It's not just a solitary thing - it's become a family thing, too. It's about exercising and passing something on from father to son, and from mother to daughter.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Surfing is such an incredible experience with a huge ego element.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
Surfing is something I just crave.
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