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When I was a kid, we sat around the house. If I got bored, I'd have to figure out something to do.

Surfing is something I just crave.

I surf - that's the one thing I make time to do. I definitely surf a lot, but when you're working 15 hour days... all I want to do is get home to my baby.

Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.

Well, I motorcycle, I hunt, fish, I do all that. I keep busy. I'm never bored. I've never been bored.

I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.

I get bored very easily.

It may come as a surprise to people, but I'm actually quite boring and normal. What do I do? I read books. I drive my kid to school. I have lunch with my wife. I pick my kid up from school. I go home.

I have been surfing since I was six years old.

Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.