You only need two waves in a heat, so I try and keep my surfs short and sweet and not too draining. Keep them intense and try and get the two best waves I can.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
I'm a surfer. I grew up in Southern California and used to surf twice a day, every day.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Surfing is something I just crave.
It's good to surf whatever waves are going on right there as they're happening.
The first thing I do every morning is go online to check the surf. If the waves are good, I'll go surf. The beach is 10 minutes away.
Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.