I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
I feel like an ambassador for surfing at this point. I'm happy to go and play that role and share that where I can in certain areas of the mainstream media that doesn't get the surfing attention.
I channel surf like probably most people.
I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
I surfed competitively from age 13 to 18. Every day, before and after school. I wanted to surf for the rest of my life. It's what all my friends did - I even had it as a subject in school for a number of years.
I surf; that's how I stay healthy - not because of the gym.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there's nothing like that.
I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
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