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I was 45 years old when I decided to learn how to surf.

I am a surfer, though quite a poor one.

I was a good surfer because we grew up a block from the water, and my father took us to the ocean the way other fathers take their kids to the park.

I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.

My life path has been a blessing and a great learning experience. Skateboarding is my passion and I don't see that changing. When I'm not skating, I love to surf. I'm open to the new experiences and opportunities.

I have been surfing since I was six years old.

Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.

I'm a pretty basic surfer.

I surfed competitively from age 13 to 18. Every day, before and after school. I wanted to surf for the rest of my life. It's what all my friends did - I even had it as a subject in school for a number of years.

I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.