To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
I kind of quit surfing when I got out of high school, but then a few years ago I started to take it up again. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's so wonderful to get out in the ocean and get a different perspective on things.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
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