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Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.

I have been surfing since I was six years old.

I got to learn to surf.

Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.

I am a surfer, though quite a poor one.

I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.

I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.

Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.