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I was 45 years old when I decided to learn how to surf.

Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.

Surfing is something I just crave.

I channel surf like probably most people.

I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.

I surfed competitively from age 13 to 18. Every day, before and after school. I wanted to surf for the rest of my life. It's what all my friends did - I even had it as a subject in school for a number of years.

Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.

I'm a pretty basic surfer.

I suck at surfing. I can't pull myself up.