Surfing isn't really in my blood. It's hard to catch a big wave in Billingham.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
I'm fortunate enough with the surfing to be very much at home at the water - my pulse and heart rate are slower in the water than they are on land.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
Living in Sydney, I've taken the chance to start surfing again. One of my best memories of growing up is catching my first proper wave and surfing across it and my brother cheering at me from the shore.
It's good to surf whatever waves are going on right there as they're happening.
Surfing is something I just crave.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.