I'm fortunate enough with the surfing to be very much at home at the water - my pulse and heart rate are slower in the water than they are on land.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
Surfing isn't really in my blood. It's hard to catch a big wave in Billingham.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
I discovered surfing, which I absolutely fell in love with. That feels good and kind of keeps your body aligned, so does the salt water.
Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.
Surfing is something I just crave.
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