Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
The first time I almost died was surfing: I got hit on the head with a board. I went under and started swimming until I hit the bottom of the ocean. I thought, 'Oh my God, I'm going the wrong way. Do I have enough air to get back up?' If you're a surfer, you know the feeling.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
I swim. I do a little bit of surfing. I would say I'm a beginner at surfing. I run. I cycle. I play a little bit of soccer.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
I'm surfing the giant life wave.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.