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I've lived in California for six years and I've never surfed.

If you're a surfer, you just want to surf. You don't know if anyone's going to see you, and you don't really care if they see you. You just live for that feeling.

I have been surfing since I was six years old.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.

I never liked going in the ocean.

I tried surfing once in Brazil, but I'm kind of clumsy.

For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.

I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.

You can never turn your back on the ocean.