I've lived in California for six years and I've never surfed.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
I tried surfing once in Brazil, but I'm kind of clumsy.
I got to learn to surf.
I've been around the surf culture since I was a kid. I grew up in a beach town in Rhode Island. Then eventually I lived in Dana Point, Calif., a real surf hotbed.
I was 45 years old when I decided to learn how to surf.
The rule of surfing is never tell anyone where you go.
I surfed competitively from age 13 to 18. Every day, before and after school. I wanted to surf for the rest of my life. It's what all my friends did - I even had it as a subject in school for a number of years.
I surfed Dana Point, San Clemente, and of course Huntington Beach. Every morning, you could find me at the hot water pipe.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
I'm a surfer. I grew up in Southern California and used to surf twice a day, every day.
In L.A., I like to surf. I went through a phase - I was surfing four days a week. I'm still not good at it; I still spend most of my time falling.