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I always regret leaving home if I don't get at least four or five surfs in the week before I leave. I try to be in the water as much as possible before leaving, and it's the one thing I miss massively.

Going out there in the water, it feels as if there's nothing wrong with me.

After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.

Surfing is something I just crave.

I've been boogie-boarding, off and on, since I was a kid. But I started being devoted to the cause of getting up every morning to surf, when I'm in Los Angeles, about a decade or so ago.

For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.

Sometimes, I wake up and the skies are grey and everything's horrible.

I surf; that's how I stay healthy - not because of the gym.

I kind of quit surfing when I got out of high school, but then a few years ago I started to take it up again. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's so wonderful to get out in the ocean and get a different perspective on things.