I always regret leaving home if I don't get at least four or five surfs in the week before I leave. I try to be in the water as much as possible before leaving, and it's the one thing I miss massively.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
I kind of quit surfing when I got out of high school, but then a few years ago I started to take it up again. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's so wonderful to get out in the ocean and get a different perspective on things.
Every time I slip into the ocean, it's like going home.
Surfing is something I just crave.
To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
I surf - that's the one thing I make time to do. I definitely surf a lot, but when you're working 15 hour days... all I want to do is get home to my baby.
I miss my boats, and I miss having the ability to be out on the water during the daytime and then go skiing at night.
In L.A., I like to surf. I went through a phase - I was surfing four days a week. I'm still not good at it; I still spend most of my time falling.
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