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Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world.

I always regret leaving home if I don't get at least four or five surfs in the week before I leave. I try to be in the water as much as possible before leaving, and it's the one thing I miss massively.

I love the sea, and I never mind when it's rough.

Going out there in the water, it feels as if there's nothing wrong with me.

I love the ocean, but I'm just not one to lie on the beach.

At sea, I feel comfortable and I come to rest.

I've always lived by the ocean, and I always will. There's nothing like taking a walk and being able to smell the ocean breeze.

I never liked going in the ocean.

I feel most at home in the water. I disappear. That's where I belong.