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I didn't jump onto anyone else's coattail and ride their wave.

That was my dream, to compete against the best surfers in the best waves. But as a kid, it all seemed so unattainable. It was this big dream, but deep down I never thought it could really happen. But my parents always believed I could do it, and they helped me get through all the stages and take all the right steps.

'Beyond Glory' is responsible for this wave that I've been fortunate enough to ride for the last few years. And that I did primarily because I didn't know what else to do. You might say I did it out of desperation.

My first encounter with the ocean was on the Jersey Shore when I was three years old and I got knocked over by a wave. The ocean certainly got my attention! It wasn't frightening, it was more exhilarating.

There was a time when I felt I should do everything that was offered to me, you know, ride the wave.

Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.

You know what else I've learnt? That it's all right not to ride the crest of the wave. Every time a wave comes along I retreat, and I haven't come to any harm yet.

When I was in the gunner's bubble of a B25 bomber, taking off from an aircraft carrier 100 miles off the coast of San Diego, I remember saying to myself how amazing it was to get the chance to do that.