Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
It's good to surf whatever waves are going on right there as they're happening.
Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
I tried surfing once in Brazil, but I'm kind of clumsy.
You only need two waves in a heat, so I try and keep my surfs short and sweet and not too draining. Keep them intense and try and get the two best waves I can.
Surfing is something I just crave.
I'm a surfer. I grew up in Southern California and used to surf twice a day, every day.
As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.
Unless you paddle for the wave, you'll never know if you could catch it. But once you do... Ride it as long as you can. Love as long as you can.