Unless you paddle for the wave, you'll never know if you could catch it. But once you do... Ride it as long as you can. Love as long as you can.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
We also own a little boat and I'm like a kid with it. I take off early in the morning, fishing rod in tow, and just drift about the ocean all day.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
I love boats. I can be on a boat for days.
When you're hot, you try to ride it as long as you can.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
I never ride just to ride. I ride to catch a fox. I play baseball to make the team.
I think the thing to do is enjoy the ride while you're on it.
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