Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
I can't swim, and I actually hate sand.
It's the board I had a problem with. I could totally handle being in the water and stuff. I came here to do my own stunts. Water! Ocean! Action! Big waves! That water, that water has tamed me. You can feel that the world is connected to it.
I just believe that sometimes in life you're like a shark - you have to keep moving through water; otherwise, you'll die.
I'm not a beach person.
If I didn't swim my best, I'd think about it at school, at dinner, with my friends. It would drive me crazy.
Finding someone who's willing to drown with you creates a situation where you no longer want to drown.
I was so busy fighting and so busy trying to keep everything above water that I didn't realize I was spiraling downward with nowhere to go.
If I were dropped out of a plane into the ocean and told the nearest land was a thousand miles away, I'd still swim. And I'd despise the one who gave up.
Going out there in the water, it feels as if there's nothing wrong with me.
Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.