Quote

The first time I almost died was surfing: I got hit on the head with a board. I went under and started swimming until I hit the bottom of the ocean. I thought, 'Oh my God, I'm going the wrong way. Do I have enough air to get back up?' If you're a surfer, you know the feeling.

— Robert David Hall

Sentiment: NEGATIVE

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✓Similar Perspectives

I've jumped out of an airplane 34 times. I've dove 212 feet under water. I've done a lot of things that defied death.

— Jesse Ventura

I just believe that sometimes in life you're like a shark - you have to keep moving through water; otherwise, you'll die.

— Michelle Ryan

When I was 12 years old, I went to swim in a lake, and I almost died in that lake because the water was too deep - much deeper than I thought.

— Jack Ma

I suck at surfing. I can't pull myself up.

— Emily Ratajkowski

My suit blew up into a parachute. All this water rushed in, there's air, water in there. I was freaking out.

— Ryan Lochte

It was like falling off a building and suddenly, bang, you hit the bottom. The first time it happened was on an ordinary day at home. I was taking down some curtains. I took one step, turned around, took another step and then I fell and hit my head hard on the rowing machine.

— Jonah Lomu

Life's fairly excruciating. Painful things happen. Every now and then, you drag yourself out of the stream and stand on the bank gasping for air. I think that's how I work.

— Helen Garner

I was singing in a mall, and I picked a girl to come up onstage with me. As I was grabbing her hand, I fell off the stage. It felt like I was in the air forever, flying like Superman.

— Aaron Carter

✗Opposing Perspectives

Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.

— Paul Walker

The minute you start feeling like you've got it down, you know what you're doing, you're dead in the water.

— Vincent D'Onofrio