I'm surfing the giant life wave.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
Just as the wave cannot exist for itself, but is ever a part of the heaving surface of the ocean, so must I never live my life for itself, but always in the experience which is going on around me.
As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
For me, surfing is as close a connection I can have with Mother Nature. To surf, you're riding a pulse of energy from Mother Nature. And it's strong. It's real. It's there. And you're dancing with that. You're connecting with that. You're might be the only person in the history of the universe that connects with that particular pulse of energy.
Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.