Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
Sentiment: NEGATIVE
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
Surfing is something I just crave.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.