I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
Sentiment: POSITIVE
I was a good surfer because we grew up a block from the water, and my father took us to the ocean the way other fathers take their kids to the park.
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
I'm a surfer. I grew up in Southern California and used to surf twice a day, every day.
Growing up, I used to go to an inlet to lay out and try to meet all the surfer guys.
I grew up surfing. My dad probably put me on a surfboard before I could walk.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I started surfing when I was working on 'The Hunger Games,' out on the north shore of Oahu, so about four years ago. I used to skateboard as a kid, kind of religiously, until I broke my leg riding in a pool when I was about 14 and I couldn't play football that fall.
My dad's a surfer-psychologist, and my mother's an actress-fitness instructor, and we all practice Buddhism.