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After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

Being out there in the ocean, God's creation, it's like a gift He has given us to enjoy.

As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.

I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!

Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.

I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.

Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have on this planet.

Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.

For me, surfing is as close a connection I can have with Mother Nature. To surf, you're riding a pulse of energy from Mother Nature. And it's strong. It's real. It's there. And you're dancing with that. You're connecting with that. You're might be the only person in the history of the universe that connects with that particular pulse of energy.