I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
Sentiment: POSITIVE
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
I do believe in Christ, but I would not hold myself up as any paragon of virtue at all - far from it, really.
I started surfing when I was working on 'The Hunger Games,' out on the north shore of Oahu, so about four years ago. I used to skateboard as a kid, kind of religiously, until I broke my leg riding in a pool when I was about 14 and I couldn't play football that fall.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.
I believe in the crucifixion of Jesus Christ.